Sergio Peris is one of Valencia´s young `rising star´ chefs. He learnt his craft at Torrijos ( Valencia) and Abac (Barcelona) , both Michelin starred restaurants before returning to traditional food with Casa Pepica and Kaimus. After a spell at Alejandro del Toro and some overseas adventures he opened Sergi Peris Gastronòmic in Galeria Jorge Juan.
Last night we were invited to the press launch of his new menu. An eclectic mix of modern and traditional dishes. After an aperitif of the Merseguera from the Alto Turia Bodega of Santa Barbara ( DO Valencia) we started with bubbles. The Aÿ house of Champagne Lallier produces an excellent 2012 Brut from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with grapes from the top Cru vineyards including those of Bouzy and Ambonnay. A golden bright wine with persistent fine bubbles, on the nose white flowers, honey and apples, in the mouth creamy full and equally well capable of accompanying meat dishes
On this occasion it was a traditional accompaniment for Normandy oysters, fresh and full of that wonderful flavour of the sea.
This was followed by a selection of dishes which now appear on the `Carte´ and which should excite diners visiting the restaurant.
We started with small portions of very fine pizza style the elements piped to good effect. There were oysters from the mediterranean served in two sauces, the first an homage to Valencia and her oranges and the second an earthy , spicy and smoky sauce with a base of beetroot.
There was a foam in a coffee cup, subtle and satisfying, and foie served with a cream of parsnip. Unusually perhaps there was also a fusion dish, a `crujiente´ with sea-anenome in tempura batter and then Tuna cheeks in a light sauce. This was all accompanied by a traditional dark bread, with a fine ,.moist crumb and well textured crust.
The main plate chosen was smoked quail, light, tender and subtle, its core filled with its garnish.
These were all served with a selection of mainly ecologic or biodynamic wines.
In whites we were served Pedralonga 2015, Albariño from DO Rias Baixas biodynamic, unfiltered and with a nice balance. The Mersé is another pure Merseguera from the same Titaguas bodega this time Fermented in oak barrel. This was fuller with a subtle richness of red apple fruit. The Opus Evolutium Privat Gran Reserva is a Brut Nature cava from the Alta Alella, a blend of Pansa Blanca, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Finally we tasted the sweet José Pariente 2014 Sauvignon from DO Rueda. This was one of the wines of the night, grapefruit and honey scented and capable of matching with a number of dishes.
In reds the Peña el Gato Garnacha is a chunky, robust and fruity wine , very good and from a selection of just 1200 bottles from DO Rioja. The other red was Valencian, from DO Utiel-Requena. The Angelet 2013 Crianza from Bodegas Palmera in Utiel is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, a satisfying more traditional wine.
Coffees followed finishing off a very pleasant evening. VÍ vid recommends a visit to the restaurant where the waiting staff worked attentively to keep a critical group happy!