We visited the Latorre bodega in Venta del Moro for the first time in March 2014. We knew the wines well from the many fairs they had exhibited at. Then the bodega was undergoing a review of its wines and labels. As a good example, the new ‘Parreño’ range with its sparkly labels was being introduced, and the great ‘Duque D’Arcas’ Gran Reserva ( the current vintage was 2001) was reaching the end of its production. This old-style classic red wine with lots of oak ageing was going out of fashion.

When we visited last week, the labels on the Parreño were under review again, the Duque D’Arcas range has been reduced to three wines, a ‘Madurado en Barrica’, the ‘Solo Bobal’ red, and a new ‘Bobal Blanco’ made also from red grapes.

Over the years, we have maintained a relationship with the family and the bodega, giving English Language tastings of their wines at Ca Tino and Proava (this latter tasting covered by the local Valencian TV station (in Valenciano!) and attending their * celebration in the Finca Garrido. We also visited each Spring to taste the new tank, barrel, and bottled wines. This was only interrupted by the pandemic and subsequent transport difficulties.

This gives a clue to the leadership of the bodega. Under Luis Miguel, working with his son (also Luis Miguel) as wine-maker, the marketing of the wines and their styles has always been under review. Now that Luis Miguel senior has retired, Luis Miguel junior and Luis Rafael, who has taken the helm, are closely following the trends in wine drinking and customer wishes.

The loss of the Gran Reserva was just one stage in this process; the Parreño rosado was the second, changing from the bubble gum, deep strawberry classic with huge amounts of fruit to a pale ‘Provençal’ pink rose colour with a much more mineral taste, but keeping the ripe fruit. The Catamarán, formerly an oak-aged Macabeo, is now a blend of Verdejo and Macabeo, a much fresher modern style white with only a short pass in oak. (More of this wine below.)

Latorre has joined the small band of local bodegas by introducing a ‘Blanc de Noir’ made from the local variety Bobal. We predict that this trend will continue to develop in DO Utiel-Requena as the variety lends itself to the new style and trend for fresh , lighter white wines.

Our visit on the 19th May allowed us to re-ignite our knowledge of their range and the latest developments and our tasting notes follow below.

1. Parreño Blanco 2024, 12%ABV.

A blend (50/50%) of Verdejo and Macabeo (Latorre had Verdejo before it was a permitted variety in the DO), this is very much an ‘on-trend’ new white wine. Pale in colour, steely edged, it is clean and bright. The nose is fresh, clean and expressive, floral , fruity, and with a hint of fennel. In the mouth, it is perhaps a little fuller than expected, has some volume, is very fresh with a lively acidity, and has a long finish.

2. Parreño Rosado 2024, 12%ABV.

Pure Bobal, this wine is a Provençal pale pink rose colour, clean and very bright with long legs. Fresh and clean nose, which opens slowly, red fruits, and a hint of minerals. In the mouth, a fresh and easy pass, clean, light fruit, well-integrated acidity and alcohol, and a very long, mineral finish.

3. Catamarán 2024 12%ABV.

A blend of Verdejo (70%) and Macabeo with a short pass in wood, this is a very pale yellow, with green flashes, and is clean and bright. Expressive, fruity (white fruits, stone fruits such as apricot, loquat, and canteloupe melon) nose, floral, with herbs, (fennel). Very pleasant on entry, full bodied with a nice fresh acidity, good structure and a long mineral finish. Good evolution in the glass.

4. Duque d’Arcas, Bobal Blanco 2024, 12% ABV

This is the Bodega’s new wine, a pure ‘Blanc de Noir’, from Bobal. Very pale, steely colour, clean and bright. This needs a little time in the glass before the bouquet emerges to give a clean, fresh, subtle, and complex nose, aromatic and floral notes with white fruits. On entry, good volume, with an interesting juxtaposition with the floral notes of a white wine and the fruit of a red (cherry and peach versus violet and jasmine). The wine has a very good structure, and our question is, will it improve in the bottle and age well? We think so!

5. Parreño Tinto 2023 13%ABV.

We next tasted two vintages of the Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon blend (50-50% of each). This 2023 is a garnet colour, with medium body. On the nose, it is brambly, with sweet cherry, ‘puro moro’, red liquorice and candy. Fruity on entry, an easy pass, lots of red fruits of the forest, and sufficient depth, good length and a satisfying finish.

6. Parreño Tinto 2024 13%ABV.

The 2024 is fresher, a bright red colour, youthful red cherry with long legs. On the nose, the fruit is sweeter, cherry, candy, and blue flowers (violets). In the mouth, the tannins are more notable, it is fruity with a better balance, structure, and has a good, long finish.

7. Duque d’Arcas, Madurado en Barrica, 13%ABV.

In colour, this is between the previous two tintos. It is the same blend as the Parreño but has this pass in oak for three months. Half in French oak and half in American. It has long, slow legs. On the nose, the mature fruit is joined by spice, vanilla from the American wood, and nutmeg and pepper from the French. In the mouth it is not unlike the 23 Parreño but has spice, oak and more mature fruit. This wine would go well with a good brasa.

8. Duque d’Arcas Crianza 2021.

Again, this is a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) with the rest made up of Bobal, but with 7 months in oak. Black cherry colour, medium to full bodied with long legs. On the nose, lots of mature red and black fruit, some of it quite jammy, with sweet notes, green pepper underlying, and a honeyed note. There are also notes of cocoa nibs, black licorice, and minerals. In the mouth the tannins are polished, the wine has lots of volume. The oak is third use which reduces the effects of the tannins. A very elegant wine with 2-3 years ageing potential.

9. Duque d’Arcas Bobal Solo. 2023.

This wine has been around for about 12 years, the bodegas’ response to the D.O. allowing winemakers to make ‘vinos de autor’, wines which reflect the soul of the variety, soils, and the winemaker themselves. It was also at a time when Bobal was achieving recognition of the variety and not just a grape that was good for full-bodied rosado or blending. A youthful, purple colour with a violet edge, colouring the glass as the long, slow legs fall. The nose is a ‘fruit bomb’, cherry, violet, chocolate, licorice, quite classic. In the mouth, candy and sweets, very full-bodied, well-integrated alcohol, good structure, and a wine with a long, creamy finish.

This was a very impressive tasting. Latorre has been a favourite for many years, and it is good to see the completed transition from father to son as winemakers, and a couple of better vintages have returned the bodega to a strong position in the market with a modern style, quality and very marketable wines for both the National and International markets. The attention to detail in marketing, wine trends, and quality is to be welcomed, even the relatively minor changes to bottle shapes and the colour of the labels!

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